Jewellery Chains to AVOID

Are you confused about which chains to use in your permanent jewellery business? Getting this wrong could leave your clients with green wrists, knocking on your door for refunds. Not exactly the vibe, right? Let’s break down the different types of chains—the good, the bad, and the ones you should avoid like the plague—to keep your clients happy and your business thriving.

Why Getting It Right Matters

Choosing the right chain isn’t just about avoiding green wrists. It’s about keeping your clients thrilled with their jewellery, protecting your reputation, and dodging those nasty fines (yes, up to £10,000!) if you’re not following hallmarking laws.

We’ve trained hundreds of students online and in person, and trust us, understanding your chains is non-negotiable. So, let’s dive into what you need to know.

What Are Precious Metals Made Of?

We’ve all heard of solid gold and sterling silver, but what do those terms actually mean? And are they the right choice for permanent jewellery?

Solid Gold

Pure gold (that’s 24 karat, by the way) might sound fancy, but it’s far too soft to use for jewellery. Imagine your bracelet falling apart—not ideal! To make it stronger, we mix it with other metals like zinc and nickel in a process called alloying. Here’s how it works:

• 18 Karat Gold: This is 75% pure gold and strikes a perfect balance between quality and durability.

• 14 Karat Gold: Slightly less gold (58.3%), but it’s stronger and more affordable.

The colour of gold—whether yellow, rose, or white—depends on the mix of metals in the alloy. Rose gold gets its rosy hue from copper, while white gold looks lighter thanks to silver or nickel in the mix.

Sterling Silver

Sterling silver is an alloy too, made up of 92.5% pure silver. It’s high quality but can tarnish over time, especially when exposed to sulphur or certain chemicals. That’s why sourcing from trusted suppliers and educating your clients on proper care is so important.

Hallmarking Laws: What You Need to Know

If you’re selling solid gold, sterling silver, or platinum jewellery in the UK, you need to know about hallmarking laws. These laws require jewellery to be independently tested and stamped with a hallmark if it exceeds certain weights:

• Gold: Exempt if under 1 gram.

• Silver: Exempt if under 7.78 grams.

• Platinum: Exempt if under 0.5 grams.

Permanent jewellery often uses lightweight chains, so it’s usually exempt. But make sure you’re sourcing materials from reputable suppliers with proof of purity. For heavier items, getting them hallmarked is worth the peace of mind.

What about the US? No hallmarking laws there, but that also means no protection against counterfeit materials. It’s a bit of a free-for-all, so stick to trusted suppliers or send your chains to an assay office for testing.

Chains to Avoid in Permanent Jewellery

Let’s talk about the ones to steer clear of. These might look good at first, but they’ll quickly turn into a nightmare for you and your clients.

Gold-Plated Chains

Gold-plated chains have a base metal core with a super-thin layer of gold on top. How thin? We’re talking just a few microns. That means the gold will wear off quickly, leaving your clients with tarnished jewellery and green wrists. Not cute.

Gold Vermeil

Gold vermeil is similar, but the base metal is sterling silver instead of something cheaper. It’s better, but still not durable enough for everyday wear. Avoid it for permanent jewellery unless you want unhappy clients.

The Best Chains for Permanent Jewellery

Now for the good stuff! These chains are client-approved, durable, and perfect for permanent jewellery.

Gold-Filled Chains

Gold-filled chains are a game-changer. They have a thick layer of solid gold (at least 5% of the chain’s weight) bonded to a base metal. Here’s why we love them:

• Durable: They’re resistant to tarnishing and won’t wear off like gold-plated chains.

• Affordable: Cheaper than solid gold but still high quality.

• Legal: They’re considered plated, so they’re usually exempt from hallmarking laws.

Solid Gold and Sterling Silver

If you want to go all out, solid gold and sterling silver are timeless choices. Just make sure you’re within the weight limits for hallmarking, and always source from reputable suppliers.

Tips for Staying Compliant and Delivering Quality

• Keep Jeweller’s Scales Handy: Always check the weight of your chains to ensure they’re under hallmarking limits.

• Source Smart: Stick with reputable suppliers who can guarantee the purity of their materials.

• Educate Your Clients: Help them understand how to care for their jewellery so it stays looking gorgeous.

Final Thoughts

By avoiding low-quality options like gold-plated or vermeil chains and focusing on high-quality materials like gold-filled, solid gold, and sterling silver, you’ll create jewellery that’s as durable as it is beautiful. Your clients will thank you, your reputation will soar, and you’ll never have to worry about those dreaded fines.

So go ahead, choose the best chains, and keep creating jewellery your clients will love forever!